Wednesday, 3 November 2010

Bib with sleeves

The original tutorial is by Meisjesmama (in Dutch). It is wonderfully easy. A great project for beginners.

You'll need:
- a towel or a piece of terry cloth 
thread in a matching color
- free pattern by Meisjesmama
- paper, pencil and a measuring rod
- fabric scissors
- a needle 
- bias binding (2,3 meter for the maxi bib)
- thread in a matching color
- a sewing machine
- decorations you like (optional)

Draw the pattern. Add 1 cm seaming allowance on the upper and downside of the arms - both on the body piece and on the loose arm.
If you want to finish the sleeves with bias, you don't need to add a seaming allowance at the sleeve gap. If you want to make a seam at the sleeve gap, you add 2 cm. 
On the parts that you'll finish with bias, you don't need a seaming allowance.

Pin the pattern pieces to the double folded terry cloth. Align the bottom of the body piece with the seam of the towel. This way you can recycle the seam. Cut one body piece and two arm pieces.

Finish the parts that will form the sleeve gaps (A and B), if you are not using bias. Like I am doing in this example. 

Pin the sleeves to the body piece. Align the armpits so that they'll fit. If the armpit doesn't match, switch the sleeve to the other side of the body.

Stitch the four seams on the upper and down sides of the sleeves with a zigzag stitch. That works best with terry cloth. 

Cut redundant fabric off.

Turn inside out and stitch a seam where the sleeve gap is (if you are not using bias). To do this fold 1, 5 cm of cloth to the inside. Put pins along the sleeve. Slowly stitch at 1 cm from the sleeve end, starting on the downside seam of the sleeve. It's a bit of a wriggling job, since the sleeve is too small to fit around your sewing machines arm, but if you do it slow it will work out.

Stitch the bias binding on the sides. An explanation on bias binding is posted here, thanks to Mme Zsazsa, our sewing expert.

Stitch the bias around the neck line. Pin the middle of the bias to the middle of the neck. Finish the corners.

I don't know how it is done 'officially', but here is my way of finishing bias corners. Cut a triangle at the end and fold back. 

Stitch to the end and make an L. Pull the thread on the right side of the fabric through to the other side, tie it and cut it off.

If you didn't finish the sleeves with a seam, now is the time to apply bias to the sleeves gap.

And .. Your bib is ready. 
If you want to, you can decorate the front. 

Good luck and good sewing.

Other bib tutorials (without sleeves):
- Simple but lovely pattern from Chickpea Sewing Studio
- Basic bib by Nested
- Three free bib patterns by Poo Pockets
- Reversible baby bib by Petchy
- Laminated bib by Make it and love it
- Vintage bib by Et laine
- Rectangular bib by Spincushion
- Vinyl tablecloth bib by Vanilla Joy
- Towel bib by Vanille Joy

In Dutch:
- Simple bib by Miekk

Bias binding

I am guessing that the right way to use bias binding is a mystery for most beginners. It was for me, before I discovered this explanation by Mme Zsazsa. She's the sewing guru for the Dutch speaking world, or at least for the blogging part of that world.
I recently discovered that she's also very nice. She has allowed me to translate her tutorial on bias and share it here with you.

Here it goes:

1. Put the ribbon to the backside (the wrong side) of the fabric, aligned with the top side, and stitch in the pleat.

2. Turn the fabric and fold the ribbon over the top until it reaches the stitch line or right under it. Stitch it to the fabric, as close to the edge as possible. This way the stitching is positioned in the seam or on the bias on the other side of the fabric and not on the tissue, which looks much nicer.

3. If you don't make a circle, fold the beginning and the end of the bias around the fabric and attach it. See the upper left corner in step 1.
Open the bias, the wrong sides of the bias are now touching, fold them down and stitch as in step 2.

4. If you do make a circle with bias do it as explained in the drawing below.

Goede kant = Right side
Achterkant = Wrong side/backside

A few more tips:

- If you are using a heavy fabric, stitch the ribbon (step 1) on the right side of the pleat and not in it. This way you have more ribbon left to fold over the fabric and reach the stitch line on the other side.
- If you notice that you can't reach the stitch line with the edge of the ribbon (step 3), cheat by cutting a millimetre of the fabric.

Copyright: This tutorial and all drawings are made by Mme Zsazsa. I am very grateful that I could post them here.